J.T.

Galliano's breakthrough F/W 1994 collection really showcases how immaculate and decadent his work is. but the number of personal favors needed from wealthy patrons to make it happen really makes u wonder if that kind of patronage could be more proactive in 2026

History and fantasy

The Lacroix woman wasn't just in her own world, she ruled her whole galaxy. Christian Lacroix F/W 2004 Haute Couture

Genuinely insane to me that Boudicca has become so obscure. Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby were among the few who could give McQueen a run for his money. They had the technical mastery AND the creative audacity. They even made it onto the Paris Haute Couture calendar. S/S 2005

Satoshi Kondo's mastery of textile manipulation and draping is unrivalled to me right now in Paris.

Combat-like references translated into desirable products

I'll never stop repping for talented American designers. I love Prabal Gurung's sensibility for reconciling military severity and feminity. Militarized peplums, leather harnesses, hard tailoring, fluid silks.

That's kinda outrageous. I know there are also lots of similarities between his Tom Ford and Ann Ann Demeulemeester.

His early menswear did not disappoint either.

Haider Ackermann's early work often goes ignored. His S/S 2003 guest collection for talent incubator Ruffo Research was already showcasing his sharp tailoring and sensual draping.