Haider Ackermann's early work often goes ignored.
His S/S 2003 guest collection for talent incubator Ruffo Research was already showcasing his sharp tailoring and sensual draping.
Another overlooked collection I have a soft spot for is Versace F/W 2010. The biker elements, the metallic bodycon pieces, the sliced asymmetrical panels - all exuded speed and energy.
Vogue's Sarah Mower was not impressed.
I've always been skeptical of the worship around Raf Simons, but his work at Jil Sander remains seminal.
S/S 2012 remains the peak of his work there. He really captures the grace and clarity of minimalism in fashion.
PERSISTENT industry chatter that LVMH is indeed in talks with Hedi Slimane to replace both Ghesquière and Pharrell at Louis Vuitton - with menswear, womenswear, beauty and jewellery potentially consolidated under his creative direction.
People forget that it was Karl Lagerfeld who turned the Resort/Cruise format from being a commercially-driven interim season into a global publicity spectacle and brand diplomacy tool.
I find myself thinking about this collection a lot. Flirty 1980s confidence. Hannah MacGibbon's contribution to Chloe is not appreciated enough.
Chloe F/W 2009
An oft overlooked Prada collection, but one of my personal favorites, is F/W 2010. It's so quintessentially Prada. The 60s/Hitchcock references remind me of the dangerous intellectual charm of the Prada woman.
The large bustlines required them to cast Victoria's Secret models.
